Istanbul

(Lesley) Istanbul was quite the experience. What an interesting city. It was more European than I imagined it would be although I have no real basis for any imaginings as I haven't read much about modern day Istanbul. We stayed up near Taksim Square, just off Istiklal Caddesi, the main drag that leads down towards the Galata Tower. The area is called Beyoglu, and there, we were in the heart of the clubbing action. At 7:00 pm the music would start and most nights the room throbbed with the various beats until 3:00 am. On Friday and Saturday the room pulsed until 4:00 am. This did not deter us in our sleep. In fact it was comforting in an odd sort of way. Like a mother's heartbeat for a newborn, I suppose. It was when the music stopped that I would wake briefly, which is why I know what time it stopped. I think John posted a photo last blog so you may be aware of where we slept in the roof room of the tall and skinny Soho Istanbul. We enjoyed our stay in this hotel/hostel. I'm glad we didn't sign up for the 9 bed dorm though. The 3 bunk beds in that room were Indian train style, 3 beds one atop the other. The manger actually had a funny story about two Indian boys who came and stayed awhile while interviewing for jobs in Istanbul. They brought their father with them and they stayed in the 9 bed dorm room. One day the door was open as the manager was rounding the corner heading up the stairs so he got a full view and saw the extent of the cultural kit that one sees in India. The old man was in his while undershirt with a head scarf of sorts doing yoga, there was laundry hanging all around the room. He had set up an entire kitchen complete with a full complement of spices on a rack over three feet long and a stove. The manager wondered what the other occupants of the room thought Dorm rooms; interesting places to sleep while travelling around the world. Generally we opt for them when they are an option as they are cheaper and they are a good way to meet others travelling on a budget who often have good advice. So, Soho Istanbul for anyone who wants a cheap bed, late night music and to meet a helpful friendly hostel guy.

We had no trouble amusing ourselves in Istanbul. There was the Aya Sofya, first a church, then a mosque and now a museum; about 1500 years old and still a beauty. Apparently it has consistently had scaffolding in the dome, however as last year Istanbul won the European Culture Capital Award, the city found a way of removing the scaffolding for a period of time. We just lucked out and got to see it sans scaffolding! We also saw The Blue Mosque and got to admire all the lovely blue tiles decorating its interior. There are lots of beautiful tiles and plates in blues and reds for sale at the shops in Istanbul; but how one would lug one of those around for a few months is beyond me.

At least once a day, we walked past the Galata Tower and crossed the Galata Bridge to or from Eminonu. We enjoyed Balik Ekmek (Fish sandwiches) there by the waterfront. We toured the Topkapi Palace and went underground to see the Basilica Cistern. For Sam's birthday we did a cruise on the Bosphorus. We went almost all the way to the Black Sea. The Istanbul Archaeological Museums were worth the visit too and The Grand Bazaar was a breeze after our experiences bartering and with the touts in India and Egypt. I could have easily stayed in Istanbul for another week as there were many more things I would have loved to see.

One interesting highlight of our stay in Istanbul was finally finding a Panasonic Service Centre that would open and clean our camera. As you may have noticed on any blog pics with sky, we have had a dirty lens. We have been looking in earnest since Delhi for someone to open and clean our camera. We have have no luck at all. In Sultanahmet, we left our camera for a day at a shop that sold Panasonic. We returned and were told that it could not be fixed in less than two weeks and that the mirror in the lens was broken. We were disappointed, but not enough to drop $500.00 on a new one. The next day returning from Kapali Carsi, the Grand Bazaar, I couldn't resist trying again at a Panasonic shop that I happened to pass. The fellow there sent me to the third floor to Kaan Photo. From there another lad took me to the fourth floor to see where they cleaned and fixed cameras. In a strange broken English with help of a notebook I described my camera problem. They wanted to have a look at the camera, which John and the kids had back in Beyoglu. Explaining its absence was difficult! Who seeks out a service centre for a broken camera without the camera? But I think I gave them the impression that after a sleep, (the next day) I was going to return with the camera in hope of help and a service or a cleaning. The next morning I fixed a rendez-vous time and place with the others and brought the camera back to the shop. I had to wait a while for the technician to arrive, but in the 30 minute wait time, the shop boys and I made good use of Google translator to establish that I wanted the camera serviced and cleaned. I committed to the 60 Tl charge for the cleaning and went off to enjoy my day, hopeful but not really expecting success. Very dirty! was the technician’s comment upon my return in the afternoon. Well after deserts in India, Jordan and Egypt and over 8 months hard use on the road I can only imagine what he found in that little black box. All four major marks are gone now from our photos and even the sun spot on the lens from sunset photos at Petra is all but gone. It was 60 Tl well spent as it has renewed our interest in taking photos. Of course, we also found a new fancy model of our camera. One that comes with a zoom that you control with a swivel of the lens rather than the mechanical zoom that I have grown to like less and less. This newer version is quite a bit more expensive and will not likely be an option for us for a few years. However, if anyone is looking for a sweet new camera, let me talk you into the Panasonic model I found (though I can't remember the model name).

In order to leave Istanbul on Sunday, we walked to Taksim square where we caught a service bus to one of the otogars where we were able to get a bus to Marmaris to meet John's second cousin, Terry Anthony. Terry spends a few months in Turkey each year, relaxing and guiding walks in the mountains 30 minutes out from Marmaris. We planned to go see him and do a walk or two before carrying on along the Mediterranean coast. (I stand corrected, by Mhari, who explains that Terry is in fact John's first cousin once removed. Anyone wanting to argue that will have to take it up with my daughter)

Much to our excitement, around midnight Sunday, our bus stopped at a ferry dock just out from Istanbul. We didn't expect a ferry ride on our bus trip. We didn't even know which way around the sea of Marmara the bus was going to go. It went east and cut off about 50 km and a large city by taking a ferry. The bus ride was smooth and sleepy and we arrived in Marmaris ready for a new day of adventures (after a 4 hour nap). Terry was where he said he would be and the next morning we were up and out by 9:00 hiking up a mountain. It was gorgeous. We saw some lizards and a tortoise, lots of flowers, birds and a mountain cabin. One thing that struck me about Turkey when we first arrived was the sound of birds. Nature is close at hand in Turkey, with the exception perhaps of Istanbul being a big city, access and proximity to nature seems abundant.

Tomorrow we hike again with Terry and we even have a Skype session planned with Mhari's classmates. That will be a first. We will see how it goes.

In praise of Skype!: If you don't already use Skype but have heard of it (as lately it has made the news, being bought out by Microsoft) it well worth becoming familiar with. We have enjoyed communicating with friends and relatives via Skype this year. I would recommend trying it out, although I don't know if changes will occur owing to the buyout.

Now for some pics...since the cleaning, no dirt!

Photos: Sea gulls swooping for simit which we tossed from the cruise boat; Birthday boy gets hugs and kisses.  Yuck; Istanbul fun; Boys enjoy chai on the boat; Famous Kanlica Turkish yogurt. Eaten with a sprinkling of powdered sugar, Mmm; Rumeli Fortress seen from the Bosphorus; 

More photos: Ou; r favourite eating place in Istanbul; Basilica Cistern

Blue Mosque and park

Not fat from the Spice Bazaar

Mhari shopping

Galata Bridge

Fishermen on the Galata Bridge

City Art

Galata Tower

City Scene

A talented busker

The tram along Istiklal Caddesi

The view from the hostel lobby window: