Lviv then onward to Poland

(Lesley) We found another cafeteria style restaurant in Lviv. We find these cheap and easy to use. The kids love the potato latkies and we all loved the cherry verenkies. Yes, like a perrogie with cherries! They come sprinkled with sugar and a dollop of sour cream. Mm.

We went to another Opera in Lviv; this time we got seats near the front (4^th row). Although we preferred the anonymity of the balcony in Odessa and Kiev, it was nice to see everything close up. We visited a cemetery in Lviv. Lots of Ukrainian tourists had come to see their dead poets, writers, athletes etc. We just looked at the gravestones and Mhari shot of photos with a fervour that makes me think perhaps she would enjoy a camera of her own for her birthday. Lviv is different architecturally to Odessa and Kiev. Buildings are closer together, streets are narrower but it is no less beautiful. We walked a lot each day and were constantly impressed with the city. We also toured a beer museum and went to the market.

Our hostel was OK, but clearly not the best we have stayed in. It was a bit of a party place with lots of late night noise and drinking. We would hear each set of inebriated travellers as they headed to bed. Last night one fellow, American I think, knocked insistently on our door and invited us to join him drinking vodka and having fun. He kept offering so we let him know that the kids were asleep and he gave up immediately. (It was the 4^th of July). The stairway always smelled of cigarettes and stale beer. However the room was ok. We had beds (very worn), our own bathroom, hot water, clean sheet and towels (though these smelled of smoke so we opted to use our own).

We are in Poland now on a train, just seats on an inner city train, no berths. We have new money and a new language in which or with which to become familiar. Crossing the border was interesting! At one point it was as if a pinyata (sp?) had just broken open. The guards on the Polish side opened the gate and were cheering on the crowd. This was obviously their hourly entertainment and to be honest it was better than wrestling. Everyone just scrambled and pushed and fought to get to the next door ahead of the others. Luckily, we were at the front and properly positioned with our elbow out, the restraining fence kept them from getting past us if we moved quickly. Though they did try. I used my arms to keep two back and my bag to deny a third a route through. We had been beaten or passed by at least 15 while getting stamped out of the Ukraine so we were wise to their tactics. They had used a sudden rain storm to excuse their jumping the barriers to get under the eaves and when the guard told them off for it they ducked under the barrier in front of us to rejoin the queue. We were more stunned and impressed than we were ripped off and outraged at their behaviour. We made a vow to maintain our position entering Poland. A new game! In the end, we made it to the next gate first, put ourselves in good positions and resisted against the pushing. Then John got stuck in the single entry turnstile doorway. No, he hasn't gained that much weight. It was my fault, really. He and his backpack took the full space that let one through at a time and my daysack on the front cut across the sensor and locked the door in front of John. Everything stopped, and everyone behind had an idea about how to move forward so they all told John what to do in Polish, Ukrainian and Russian. Eventually a guard got involved and with some mime, and a little help from those behind and eager to get through, they backed me up, encouraged John to pass his bags into a corner then squeeze into that corner himself between the turnstile and the locked glass door, they spun the turnstile a few times to reset the system. And voila, we were through. They relocked the glass door one lady behind me so it was quiet in the guard room when we went through customs. And we met up again with some of the line cutters on the bus to the nearest Polish town and everyone was well behaved then.

What was curious though was that more than half the people heading into the Ukraine were carrying large rectangular boxes wrapped in black plastic. They were very heavy and they seemed to have two each, or four for a couple. We wondered what was in the boxes. Perhaps they were big boxes of construction nails?. Many of the people crossing into Poland with us were guys with folding luggage dollies. They were clearly earning money running these goods over the border and heading back for more. On the Polish side there were trucks unloading goods and people were picking things up then returning to the Ukraine. We had heard about long lines, big waits and smuggling at the border (vodka and cigarettes being smuggled to Poland from the Ukraine). Instead what we saw was goods going into the Ukraine with runners. John was questioned about the vodka and cigarettes and I don't think the guard was impressed that John answered no to both. What a wimp! None the less, the Polish officers made a great impression; very friendly and smiley and welcoming. They asked John where he had been and where he was going and was he travelling alone etc, but all in such a nice manner. They had a cursory glance through our bags but seemed happy to have us. Our first Polish bus driver was very friendly too. So all looks good for our visit here!
And now for some photos of Lviv.  Many are in black and white because they might as well when the weather is grey.

Photos: Main Square, Lviv; various street shots from near our hotel;  Opera House behind the fountain where we saw our next opera;  more varied street shots.